Through my interest in whisky, I have often discussed the influence of wood on the finished whisky with everyone from friends and distillers to even a couple of professors. But I have lacked a broader insight and understanding of the subject, and that has continued to fuel my curiosity.

Then, quite by chance, I came across The Flavor of Wood – In Search of the Wild Taste of Trees, from Smoke and Sap to Root and Bark by Artur Cisar-Erlach.

I have never really written book reviews before, but there has to be a first time for everything. I have read many interesting books over the years, but when I started this one, several of my interests suddenly came together in an amusing way.

The introduction immediately caught my attention and created a sense of curiosity that is probably best described by the excitement of the question:

How on earth is he going to pull that off?

And just like that, I was hooked. Artur had set out to “interview a beaver about what wood tastes like.”

Artur Cisar-Erlach was born in Vienna and has an unusual professional background as a forest ecologist, cabinetmaker, food culture expert and author. It is precisely this combination of natural science, gastronomy and traditional craftsmanship that makes him so interesting. He views wood as a living organism, a physical material and a source of flavour.

With that background, the book never becomes dry academic reading. And do not misunderstand me: there are plenty of facts in the book. But you are also taken to places where history is allowed to unfold, and where the interaction between nature and human beings becomes clearly visible.

Among other things, we hear why some natural harbours provided excellent protection from attack but never developed into major cities because the infrastructure further inland was hopeless.

We are also taken to Naples to eat pizza and hear the story of why some of the best pizzas in the world are made there. You may already have guessed it, but wood plays an important role.

The wood used in the ovens comes from the Campania region surrounding Naples and is dried in precisely the right way. The bark is removed because it can create a turpentine-like flavour. The firewood must provide the intense heat needed to create the perfect pizza crust while also contributing the best possible smoky flavour.

The book takes us through everything from the significance of trees in different religions and the origins of the finest tea to the story of how the tea plant was smuggled out of China and planted in India.

Whisky and the use of wood during maturation are also explored from several different angles. Artur interviews a number of interesting people about the influence of wood on whisky and other spirits, and about how wood can be used deliberately to combine and develop flavours.

There is also an interesting element of the terroir debate. Here, naturally enough, the main focus is on the wood: how it is influenced by its surroundings and how it later passes some of that influence on through flavour.

In his search for the taste of wood, Artur also travels to Canada, where he explores maple syrup. It turns out to be an entire science in its own right and something that is greatly influenced by terroir.

And then there is his truffle hunt.
I have never really understood what all the fuss about truffles was about. But after reading the descriptions in the book, I have to admit that I have become fascinated. Not necessarily by the flavour, but by the almost sympathetic fungus itself and its enormous underground network.
It does not simply take from the tree. It forms part of a relationship in which the tree is also helped to absorb water and minerals. I find that absolutely fascinating.

I am slightly annoyed that I had not read the book before we went on a short holiday to Italy last autumn. Among other places, we visited Modena, where some of the finest balsamic vinegar in the world is produced.
To me, balsamic vinegar had mostly been something sticky made from vinegar and used in salads. But good grief, how ignorant I have been.
I should, of course, have visited an acetaia, where traditional balsamic vinegar is produced, while we were in Modena. There are different grades of balsamic vinegar, and the production methods, traditions and barrels can go back for generations.
Artur describes how producers use and combine different types of wood to create the flavour they want in the balsamic vinegar. He also writes about tasting balsamic vinegar that had matured for more than a hundred years in wooden barrels. That is something I will have to experience one day.

To prevent this from turning into an entire book about Artur’s book, I will try to limit my descriptions of the many chapters and places he visits.
But one thing is certain: this book takes you a long way.
You gain a remarkable insight into how wood works, how different types and species of trees influence our gastronomic world, how strong a tree really is, and the enormous impact trees have on our remarkable planet.

And all of it is presented in language that is easy to understand without becoming unnecessarily technical.

In Argentina, the Yacaratiá tree grows with an entirely different structure, allowing parts of the tree itself to be prepared and eaten. There are not many examples of this because the structure of wood cells cannot normally be broken down through cooking in the same way as the cells of other plants.

I must admit that I am also rather impressed by the determination and curiosity Artur Cisar-Erlach displays in his attempt to discover what wood tastes like.

At the same time, he explains the many different ways in which we use wood – as a material for construction and furniture, for storing food, and as a source of flavour in our food and drink.

For the whisky enthusiast, The Flavor of Wood is therefore far more than a book about barrels.
Artur explores not only what wood contributes to whisky during maturation, but also how the species of tree, its place of growth, drying, toasting and the barrel’s previous use can create widely differing aromas.
At the same time, he lifts his gaze beyond whisky production itself and places barrel maturation within a much broader story about the importance of wood in human food and drink culture.

So, if you are curious and would like to look beyond how an old oloroso sherry cask or a new American white oak cask affects the flavour of your whisky, I am fairly certain that this book will both entertain you and leave you considerably wiser.

Date visited: 18 February 2024

We were warmly welcomed by Terry Knight, the man behind the family-run distillery in the small town of Takaka in Golden Bay, New Zealand.

Kiwi Spirit Distillery has its own bore and uses some of the finest water I have ever tasted. The water is crystal clear and forms a cornerstone of their production. They produce Blue Agave Tequilana spirit, gin, liqueurs, vodka, tonic—and most importantly for us—whisky.

Terry gave us an incredibly enthusiastic and thorough tour. He vividly recounted the journey from the early days of “Honey Champagne” and schnapps to what Kiwi Spirit is today, with over 8000 agave plants and a growing whisky production.

The whisky, called “Waitui,” is something truly special. Terry doesn’t see whisky just as a drink, but as a story. “Long before the Scots,” he said, “monks stored their spirits in wooden barrels—often ones that had previously held mead.” This idea, Terry has brought back to life. He makes his own mead, which is aged in new Bulgarian oak barrels for six months before those barrels are used for the whisky. The result is a soft, rounded whisky with notes of honey and wood, tasting far more mature than its age would suggest.

The whisky is aged for a minimum of eight years, and despite an annual production of just around 500 liters, Terry plans to scale up to 2500 liters per year in the future. We tasted from various casks—including a former Cognac cask, which had a lovely sweetness and character. A younger whisky from a mead barrel also showed potential with great balance.

The name “Waitui” is a compound Māori word: “Wai” means water, and “Tui” is a New Zealand bird known for its chattiness. So it becomes: “Clear water that makes you talk”—a poetic and fitting description of the experience this whisky delivers.

A big thank you to Terry and Dominic for a wonderful experience and warm welcome. This distillery is not just a production—it’s a passion and a journey.

Terry Knight, the founder of Kiwi Spirit Distillery, is a self-taught distiller with a deep passion for flavor and craftsmanship. His journey began with the production of honey wine, which later led him into the world of whisky distillation and a wide range of other spirits. What started as a small meadery gradually evolved into a full-fledged distillery, which today produces everything from gin and vodka to the distinctive TeKiwi agave spirit—a tribute to both innovation and local terroir.

The distillery is located on a beautiful 25-hectare estate in Golden Bay, surrounded by its own gardens and orchards. These supply ingredients directly to the production, creating a close connection between nature, raw materials, and the final product.

Kiwi Spirit Distillery’s whisky has a distinctive signature style: it is smooth and easy to drink, yet deep and complex. The flavor is marked by clean, elegant oak and a subtle roundness imparted by the unique maturation in casks that previously held honey wine. The result is a whisky with both character and charm—a product shaped by craftsmanship, place, and vision.

^UPDATE: Sadly Terry Knight passed away on the 13th of October 2024 from a heart attack. The distillery continues and is still run by his children Jeremy, Isabella and Oliver.

Nara and the Sacred Mount Miwa

Nara, Japan’s first capital, is home to some of the country’s oldest shrines and temples. Here, we also find Soni Village, where KaMiKi whisky is produced. Near the village rises the sacred Mount Miwa, regarded in Shinto as a living kami (deity). At the foot of the mountain lies the Ōmiwa Shrine, one of Japan’s oldest Shinto shrines. Ancient rituals are still practiced here, and KaMiKi’s distillery has received blessings from the shrine’s priests — a spiritual anchoring that leaves its mark on the whisky.

Kyoto and the Thousand Torii: Fushimi Inari

Not far from Nara lies Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, famous for its thousands of vermilion-red torii gates winding up the mountainside like a portal to another world. Inari, the god of rice and commerce, is a central figure in Japanese folklore. The many torii symbolize transitions between the worldly and the sacred — each passage a purification, a new layer of respect and immersion. This symbolism is mirrored in the experience of KaMiKi whisky, where layer upon layer of flavor leads you into a sensual journey.

Kami, Shinto, and the Spirits of Nature

At the heart of Japanese spirituality lies Shinto, where nature itself is considered sacred. Trees, mountains, springs, and stones can all be homes to kami — the divine spirits. Mount Miwa, the sakura trees, and the cedar barrels used in KaMiKi’s whisky production are all expressions of this connection. Even the name KaMiKi comes from “kami” (god) and “iki” (life force, breath) — a poetic image of the whisky as the sacred mountain’s breath.

The KaMiKi Distillery and Sakura Wood

KaMiKi is produced by Yoshino Spirits Co. in Soni Village, and the whisky is a blend of Japanese and international malt whiskies. After traditional maturation, it undergoes a rare secondary aging first in Japanese cedar barrels and then in sakura wood — the cherry tree that blooms briefly but intensely, symbolizing the transience and beauty of life. KaMiKi Sakura Wood Whisky carries notes of sandalwood, cinnamon, sweet flowers, and cherry — with a lingering finish flavored by the spicy cedar and the unique notes of the sakura wood. It could be a fleeting experience, like the short sakura blossom season, but it leaves a beautiful taste and memory behind.

A Bottle of Japan

KaMiKi Sakura Wood is not just a whisky — it is a story. It gathers the serenity of the mountains, the spirituality of the temple, and the beauty of the blossom into a golden drink that honors ancient Japan. To enjoy it is like walking through a torii gate: a moment of transition into something greater, more beautiful, and more deeply connected to nature and spirit.

It is whisky with soul.

The Danish Distillery Fary Lochan uses nettle smoke for their whisky, which gives it a unique flavor. I’ll return to that in a moment, but first, a bit about the nettle itself.

Nettles are readily available and provide a distinctive smoke, and they have other properties besides just flavor. They have also been used medicinally and even for textiles.

I believe most people see nettles as an annoying weed today, which doesn’t offer much benefit. But if I should mention some of the good aspects of nettles, it would be that they are rich in vitamins, especially A, C, K, and several B vitamins. They have a relatively high protein content and also contain many important minerals, including iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and silicon.
Nettles have anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce inflammation and pain.
They have diuretic properties that can help reduce water retention in the body, and they are known for their blood-cleansing properties, which can help improve liver and kidney function.
Nettles have been used to treat conditions like arthritis, allergies, eczema, and kidney problems over time.

Fary Lochan has taken a family tradition of smoking cheese with nettles and transferred it to the smoking of the malt for their whisky.
Since there are several traditions in Denmark of using nettle smoke for smoking food, among other things, several people have described how the flavor profile of nettle smoke can be.

Flavor Profiles of Fresh Nettle Smoke:
Smoke from fresh nettles is often described as having a range of complex aromas, including:

• Herbal: Reminiscent of fresh parsley, basil, or oregano
• Earthy: Gives a deep, mineral character
• Citrus: Creates a slight acidity and freshness
• Green Pepper: Adds a touch of spice and warmth
• Honey-like: Provides sweetness and smoothness

These aromas can vary depending on various factors, such as the growing location of the nettles, drying method, and the smoking technique used.

The exciting part now is – how does it affect the whisky?
Fary Lochan smokes their malt for the whisky themselves. They have a very primitive setup with an old “fireplace” where they light a fire and pile it high with fresh nettles. The chimney is fitted with a pipe that leads the smoke to a cart with the malt, and here the magic happens under the lid of the cart.

It does not become a heavily smoked whisky, but a fresh whisky where you are treated to a taste that is markedly different from the more traditional peat-smoked whiskies. In this one, it could be said that the level is around 15 ppm, and by comparison, many of the whiskies coming from Islay in Scotland are around 40-55 ppm, so it’s on the mild side.

The nettles provide a unique flavor, and here you get full value since the whisky has been aged in ex-Bourbon casks. The combination is good. The sweet vanilla notes from the cask complement the nettle smoke, also taming some of the harsher smoke notes. Nettle smoke from fresh plants can sting the eyes, but if we translate that to flavor, this is where I think it gets tamed. You get a gentler smoke. The mineral, earthy, pepper, and citrus notes come through nicely. Fary Lochan’s new make has a fantastic freshness and lovely citrus character that pairs well with the smoke from the nettles.

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It is an exciting and lovely whisky with a different taste. The “Winter” variation has been discontinued from Fary Lochan’s regular lineup, but they still make their nettle-smoked whisky, which comes as Limited Editions, such as Smoke & Sherry.

Thy Whisky – Bøg – Core Range Edition 2024

Thy Whisky produces a whisky called “Bøg,” which can be said to be a true testament to Danish tradition and craftsmanship.

Smoking with beechwood or beech chips has been a tradition in Denmark for many years, providing a pleasant smoke flavor to whatever is being smoked, whether it’s sausages for the grill, salami for the lunch table, or fish and cheese. Smoke has been used to preserve food through the ages and is still used as a natural preservative.

Beech smoke offers a unique profile that is warm, sweet, and lightly charred, adding a pleasant depth to the whisky without the harsher, earthy tones of peat smoke. This type of smoke gives the whisky a delicate sweetness and a rich, rounded smoky flavor, which also complements the sherry notes from the barrels. The flavor lingers gently on the palate.

“Bøg” whisky is a new core range whisky made from organic Odyssey barley grown in the fields around Gyrup farm in Thy.

The barley is malted and smoked at the distillery’s own drum malting facility using beech smoke. This process gives the whisky warm, malty, and smoky notes, creating a rich and full-bodied flavor.

Aging in old sherry casks, specifically Oloroso and PX, gives “Bøg” a warm and smoky character balanced with the mild sweetness of baked fruits and deep, dried fruit notes.

By using beechwood instead of peat, Thy Whisky brings a sustainable twist to traditional smoking methods, as peat is a less sustainable option compared to wood. This is a topic we could discuss at length, but that won’t be elaborated in this post.

“Bøg” was distilled in 2020 and matured using 14 casks: 10 first-fill Oloroso casks, 3 first-fill PX casks, and a special cask that isn’t often mentioned. It’s a first-fill 60-liter Palo Cortado cask that was also filled in 2020, and its influence can be sensed in the whisky.

This has resulted in 3,100 bottles, and when all the casks were blended and bottled in 2024, this whisky is a little over 3 years old. Its youth does not detract in any way; rather, it gives a very good smoky flavor and overall power in taste.

🆅🅴🆁🅻🅻:

A lovely dram that will appeal to most. The smoke is present and waves gently but is not overpowering, pleasantly coating the mouth. The different sherries complement the smoke and give a “Feel Good” sensation.

Kyrö Distillery makes delicious rye whisky, and for this smoky variation they have smoked the rye malt with alderwood smoke.

A rye whisky made from a 100% rye mash. It has been aged in ex-bourbon casks, French oak casks, and new American oak casks. Bottled at 47.2% abv.

The rye malt was dried and smoked in the old-fashioned way in a “riihi”, a traditional Finnish smokehouse. This tradition goes back over 100 years.

A “riihi” is a traditional Finnish smokehouse, primarily used for drying grain, especially barley and rye. They are typically made of wood and have a chimney in the middle that vents the smoke. Riihi’s often have a platform or loft where the grain can be spread out to dry evenly.

In Finland, riihi’s have played an important role in agriculture for centuries. They were crucial to preserving the harvest and preventing the grain from rotting. Riihi’s were also social gathering places where people met to work, party, and tell stories. So a great starting point for a drink that brings people together.

The rye gives a lot of delicious spicy notes of cedar, rye bread, dark caramel and the alderwood smoke gives a mild sweet touch of berries and dried moss, which works quite well and adds some fruitiness to the whisky while also helping to balance the bitterness of the rye.

Kyrö Malt Rye Whisky is lightly smoked, so you don’t get a smoky kick, but more of a gentle sensation. The rye is the most dominant, both on the nose and on the palate. It would be interesting to taste a more heavily smoked version, still with alderwood of course, as I think it suits the rye very well.

We don’t get an age on the whisky and a guess is that it is naturally over 3 years old but probably hasn’t reached 4 years. This edition is from 2021 and is a Pre-Release Limited Edition. I don’t know if there will be more like this, but it tastes good.

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Exciting with a different smoke flavor and I think it suits the rye very well. Whether they should make more of this alderwood smoked rye whisky at Kyrö – Yes, please!

The Manuka tree, or kahikātoa in Maori, was also called “tea tree” by Captain Cook and is known as “Rosenmyrte” in Danish. What we probably know Manuka best for is honey. The nectar from the flowers, turned into honey with the help of bees, has been used for hundreds of years as medicine and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

It’s a rather interesting and different whisky, and when I tasted it for the first time back in 2016, I wondered what on earth they had been up to down on the other side of the world. I noted at the time that it smelled a bit like “wet wild animal.” It has a quite intense smoke flavor, but at the same time, it is not as overwhelming as some peat smoke can be. It’s a smoke you need to get to know.

When we were in New Zealand in February 2024, one of my big wishes was to visit the Thomson Distillery. We had miscommunicated, and I arrived on a public holiday when I knocked on the door. It would have been fun to meet Mathew & Rachael Thomson, who own and run the distillery, and talk to them about their whisky and the wild experience it offers.

However, it didn’t stop me from buying a bottle of Thomson Manuka Wood Smoke Single Malt to take home, and now I can sit in Denmark and enjoy the wild smoke and imagine the fantastic landscape of New Zealand.

There is no wonder that malt is smoked over Manuka wood, as it provides an intense experience of something wild, something harsh, and a gentle sweetness.

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No, I haven’t smelled a wet possum, but I have smelled yarn from a possum, and my imagination of how the wet wild animal must smell is roughly what I detect. It could be a wet deer, and I have smelled that . It is an exciting whisky that is different and not with a traditional taste, which might deter some, but by golly, it is lovely.

Archie Rose is an Australian distillery that produces fantastic whisky and is very transparent about their process, which is a feature I really appreciate.

Back in 2020, I tasted Archie Rose Rye Malt Whisky for the first time, and what a delightful experience it was, but that’s not the one we’re discussing today.

It’s one of the experiments they did, released in 2019: an Ironbark Smoked Rye Malt Whisky.

The interesting thing about how this Rye whisky acquired its smoky flavor is that it wasn’t through malt smoking, but by adding smoke to the water used to dilute the finished matured rye whisky.

So, they made a regular Rye New Make, which was then aged in Virgin American Oak with a char #4. They let it rest for 2½-3 years. Large pieces of ice were melted in an oven over an Ironbark fire. Ironbark is the bark from eucalyptus trees, and its smoke was infused into the water in this process. This water was then used to dilute the whisky from cask strength to 40% ABV.

There aren’t many instances where whisky gets its smoke notes this way, and it’s quite different from the more traditional method. One might debate whether flavor is added in this process or if it would be the same as using water that has passed through peat, imparting a smoky flavor to the whisky.

I would say it has given a delightful smoky flavor and a different smoke taste. It’s gentler and rounder, and the flavor is, of course, different because the smoke from eucalyptus bark brings different smoke notes than, say, peat smoke.

It’s wonderful when experimentation leads to discoveries, either by accident or out of curiosity.

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It’s an interesting rye whisky and a great experience. I hope I get the chance to taste it again someday, though unfortunately, there’s probably not much likelihood of that happening. I don’t think they’ve produced it more than once.

Mosgaard Whisky “Black Peat” Single Malt is one of the whiskies that stands out and quickly sells out.

This particular bottle you see pictures of has a slightly different label than others of Mosgaard whiskies and is a good sign that they are expanding beyond Danish borders.

It says “Original” instead of “Organic.” The back of the bottle reveals part of the explanation – these are going to Taiwan, so in addition to English, there is also text in Mandarin.

Despite the small change in wording on the front, it’s the same organic Black Peat whisky inside the bottle.

It’s a delightful intense smoky whisky where attention to detail is evident, as always with Mosgaard whisky.

The peat-smoked new make has been maturing in a 50-liter ex-bourbon cask for 4 years and has received a finish in a Virgin Hungarian oak cask, and this is where much of the magic has happened.

The cask of Virgin Hungarian oak has influenced the whisky in this very special way, giving the whisky its very deep and dark color, which can appear almost black. When you hold the whisky up to the sunlight, you have a wonderfully clear and dark brown mahogany color.

The aroma is just as delightful if you like smoky whisky. It’s full-bodied, spiced with allspice, dried wasabi, a hint of dried cloves, tar, and something sweet like chocolate. There’s also a bit of forest floor if you sniff carefully.

It’s a warm mouthful at 55.6% in this version. It dries your mouth but makes your saliva flow.

It moves around the entire mouth, starting out on the sides with the salty and sour taste buds, then moving to the front of the mouth with the sweetness, back to the palate with a bit of bitterness before moving forward again towards the sweetness. It leaves you with a delicious smoky taste of licorice, dark chocolate, and a bit of good vanilla ice cream.

It’s an explosion of flavors rolling around in different nuances, what an experience.

🅼🆈 🆃🆂🆃🅸🅽🅶 🅽🆃🅴🆂
🅝🅞🅢🅔
Full-bodied, spiced with allspice, dried wasabi, a hint of dried cloves, tar, and something sweet like chocolate. A bit of forest floor.
🅣🅐🅢🅣🅔
Dry, warm, explosive, smoky, roasted almonds, salty licorice.
🅕🅘🅝🅘🅢🅗
Long, smoky, licorice, dark chocolate, vanilla ice cream.
🆅🅴🆁 🅻🅻
It’s an explosion of flavors rolling around in different nuances, what an experience.

My wife and I had a cozy stay in Helsingborg in Sweden where the most exciting whisky on the menu at the restaurant was this Shinobu Pure Malt

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🅝🅞🅢🅔
Orange zest, subtle soft smokiness or earthy note, toffee, grassy and oaky tones.
🅣🅐🅢🅣🅔
Velvety with hints of sandalwood, pepper, vanilla, citrus some burnt caramel and a earthy touch.
🅕🅘🅝🅘🅢🅗
Medium long with a touch of nutmeg, cinnamon, and milky coffee.
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I didn’t really know what to expect. The Mizunara oak is always intriguing in my opinion because not that much whisky is matured in these casks. This is a easy drinker but as an first impression I am not overwhelmed. I think one more taste some day can give another experience.

I have tried to find some facts about Shinobu Distillery and the whisky and this is were I get a little confused because some info does not compute in my head – The distillery is from 2012. First whisky was released in 2018 but at the same time it states that Shinobu Whisky is handcrafted by carefully selecting whiskies from around the world, reserving them in ex-sherry and ex-bourbon casks, and finishing them with Japanese Mizunara oak. The result is a fusion of flavors, a dynamic explosion on the palate, and a smooth and easy-to-drink whisky with no artificial coloring.
So how much is sourced and how much is made at the distillery?